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Tobago has a wonderful, natural quality, both in terms of its relative lack of development (by comparison with some other islands in the Caribbean and in the island’s natural life itself, above and below the waterline. It has superb forest, flora and birdlife, and some of the finest diving in the Caribbean. Of course Tobago also has many of the usual things that people expect of the Caribbean. The beaches to begin with. There are the postcard perfect, palm backed strands with white sand and gin-clear shallows, but there are also others that are wilder, more remote and incredibly attractive, with undisturbed forest that descends right to the coastline .

he Tobagonians are easy-going and polite. Life is run at a gentler pace here than elsewhere, including the frenzied life in its sister island Trinidad. There is good nightlife if you are looking for it.

There are two distinct halves to Tobago. The western end, with its stretches of coral sand beaches, feels more like the classic Caribbean. Here you will find the bulk of the tourism, with the sports to match, windsurfing and golf, and the hotels and restaurants. As you head east, though, beyond the main town of Scarborough, the land crumples and rises into hills and mountains, which are furred with incredibly lush greenery. Here you will find a much wilder Caribbean, less developed. Many Tobagonians live in simple villages clustered above bays and on the hillsides. The eastern end of the island has a magic that few places in the Caribbean can match.

The flora, similar to South America, is staggeringly beautiful. Tobago is home to one of the oldest forest reserves in the world. Inland there are caymans (a species of alligator), opossum or manicous and armadillos, called tattoos. Turtles nest on the beaches. The scuba diving, the best of which is around Speyside and Charlotteville at the eastern end of the island, is some of the finest in the Caribbean.

Tobago doesn’t have the extraordinarily mixed racial heritage of its sister Trinidad. The two were linked politically only in 1884, and before that the island’s history was more similar to the Windward Islands farther north, with its sugar and cocoa plantations. There are some Trinidadian influences in the food, but the population is still overwhelmingly of African descent. In many ways it is due to this connection with Trinidad that Tobago has developed more slowly than the other Caribbean islands. Trinidad’s wealth (largely from oil and natural gas) meant that there was less drive to develop the island.

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