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Of all the islands in the eastern Caribbean, Barbados stands apart as the one that remained British throughout its colonial history, instead of being passed from one European master to another. Some towns have charming English seaside resort names: Hastings, Brighton or Dover, while administratively the country is organised into parishes, reflecting the overwhelming Anglican influence. In the past it was often referred to as Little England, and not always as a compliment. Since independence in 1966 the country has been trying to shake off that white middle class suburban image and has moved closer in cultural terms to North America while also pursuing its African roots from the days of the slave trade. Trafalgar Square has been renamed in honour of National Heroes and the statue of Lord Nelson, a supporter of slavery, has been turned round so that he no longer looks down Broad Street. But some old habits die hard. You can still go to a polo match and be offered tea and cucumber sandwiches, or watch Sunday cricket on the village green. A Test Match at the Kensington Oval, though, is a different kettle of flying fish and an example of how an English sport has been turned into pure Afro-Caribbean pageantry, with an exuberant audience adding drums, whistles, masks and costumes.

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