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The
coast of Almeria in one of the most varied in the Spanish
coast and many areas are still unexploited. There is no better
place to play golf, practice many water sports or explore
protected natural spaces.
The
climate is ideal with more than 3,000 hours of sunlight and
average temperatures between 15.3ºC and 21.4ºC.
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Mojácar
is a village of Arab foundation. The old part of the town has lovely
corners, paved alleys and white house, whose entrances halls are
restaurants and crafts shops. The city hall is protected by beautiful
trees.
San
José is another tourist village on the coast and
has several hotels, restaurants and a harbour, where boat cruises
around the coast are organised.
Las
Negras is an ancient fishing village in a small bay with
volcanic rocks.
Rodalquiler
is close to the sea, in an area of beautiful beaches and isolated
farms. Its main attraction is the ruins of an old mine, including
the workers village. Gold was extracted from here until the seventies.
Níjar
is a white village with an Arab watchtower, a church and an ancient
artisan tradition, to highlight the ‘jarapas’, exposed
in many shops.
Sobras
is a small village close to a 60m rock, with some palaces, miradors
on the plain of the river Aguas and a pottery neighbourhood with
many ceramic shops.
The Villages
of Almeria
Our properties are based in the region of mountain villages known
as Las Alpujarras, clinging to the southern flanks of the Sierra
Nevada, cloven by deep, sheltered valleys and gorges which run down
towards the Mediterranean. The Alpujarra, as it is popularly known,
in the singular, is famous throughout Spain because of its unique
mini-ecology. Its terraced farmlands are constantly watered by the
melting snow from above, constituting a high-altitude oasis of greenery
which stands in dramatic contrast to the foothills below. This is
ideal hiking terrain for the adventurous travellers, provided you
take along a tent and well-padded sleeping bags - the average altitude
is 4,000 feet above sea level.
The
villages here include
Albox, Baza, Belerda, Guadix, Hinojares, Velez Blanco and
Velez Rubio.
These
villages were the last stronghold of the Spanish Muslims or
Moors. After the Castilians took Granada in 1492, all the
city's Moors were forced to convert to Christianity. Those
who refused took to the hills, settling in this remote, inaccessible
area. Constant pressure from the Christians led to a bloody
uprising, the Morisco Rebellion of 1568, which was ruthlessly
crushed out, with the public execution of the leader, Ben
Humeya, in the main square of Granada. Soon followed a royal
decree expelling from the Kingdom of Granada all people of
Arab descent, since the ¨new Christians¨, as the converts
were called, were all suspected of being ¨crypto-Muslims¨
in secret. |
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Albox
is located between the better known towns of Baza and Huercal and
is flanked by the Sierra de las Estancias and the Sierra de los
Filabres mountain ranges amidst stunning countryside of olive groves,
orchards of citrus trees and dramatic hills and valleys. Several
rivers and streams flow close to the town, including the rivers
Almanzara and Albanchez which contribute to the area's rich agricultural
heritage.
Albox is a
typical white-washed village with narrow streets interspersed with
small plazas. Despite its unspoilt charm, the town is not yet on
the coach tour circuit, even being less than an hour's drive from
the popular coastal resort of Mojácar.
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This region includes the plain of Baza, the plain of Guadix
and the Vega of Granada. The Altiplano rises to 1,100 metres
with a central plain of green fertile valleys watered by the
rivers Guadalquivir, Guadaletín, Castril and Guardal.
Baza
is a Moorish market town with a central ancient plaza and
a cave quarter, a bull ring and an interesting archaeological
museum. |
Belerda
is just starting to be discovered and is situated in the National
Park of Cazorla.
Guadix
is an attractive and bustling town with excellent communications.
It is ten minutes from the motorway; 45 minutes to Granada; 60 minutes
to the beach; under two hours to Malaga airport and 75 minutes to
the ski slopes. The historic quarter of Guadix has a beautiful old
square, a Cathedral built in 1594, old Arab walls, palaces, and
museums among its many attractions. especially the Cave Museum -
Plaza de la Ermita Nueva S/n.
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most interesting feature of the Guadix area is that almost half
of the inhabitants of this large town live underground, in the
southern part of the town. The jagged ochre terrain and the
dazzling whitewashed chimneys and doors of the caves contrast
dramatically with the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevada,
which loom above. The cave district is signposted on the main
street of the town as the "Barrio Troglodyte". |
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You can drive
through the cave area, but you should also get out and take a stroll.
The "troglodytes" very friendly people and are also very
house-proud, or "cave-proud", as you wish. If you show
an interest in their homes, you will be sure to be invited in to
have a look. Ever since the Moorish times, the Andalucians have
been fond of living underground because it is the best way of escaping
the summer heat waves, and don't be surprised if you are invited
in to have a look around. Most of today's cave-dwellings are well-appointed,
like any other Spanish home, and some are even quite luxurious,
with marble floors, fitted kitchens, faxes and internet connections.
Purullena, a nearby village, has a disco inside a cave, and you
can rent a cave to spend the night in many of the region's villages.
Its history
dates back to Phoenician and Roman times, and it played a major
role in the Reconquest. The region is famous for its hand-crafted
earthenware, which is sold on the roadside in the nearby village
of Purullena.
The desert
landscape around the village of Benalúa de Guadix is especially
impressive, and well worth a drive through the region. If you wish
to explore this fascinating region more thoroughly, you can also
drive from Benalúa de Guadix to the Spa called "Baños
de las Alicun de las Torres" returning on the first road on
the right after leaving the spa, which will take you back to the
A92/N342 motorway. The total drive takes between 90 minutes and
two hours.
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Hinojares
is an attractive village and has a school and medical centre,
as well as a bar, a small hotel, a supermarket and a chemist.
There is a small but growing expatriate community. Pozo Alcon
is five minutes away and Baza and the motorway are a 30 minute
drive. 15 minutes drive away are a variety of reservoirs that
are similar to lakes. |
The town's
mayor is a teacher in one of the schools, which between them have
about 12 pupils, making for very personalised teaching. Hinojares
in particular and the area in general are starting to become popular
with foreigners. About 10 houses in Hinojares are owned by British
people but the town remains very Spanish. The residents are very
friendly and the foreigners living there have found it easy to integrate.
Velez
Blanco has a stunning Renaissance castle an extension of
the original Moorish alcazaba, which was built by the Marquises
of Vélez Blanco in the early 16th century. These days, it
is something of a trompe l'oeil, with an empty shell behind the
battlements. This gutting took place in 1904, after the castle was
sold to an American millionaire, George Bluementhal, who proceeded
to tear out the interior including the Patio de Honor - a fabulous
courtyard carved in white marble by Italian craftsmen. The lot was
then unceremoniously shipped off to the USA where it has since been
reconstructed inside the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
The castle's interior only has fragments of the original decoration
and, given the Met's reluctance to return its dubiously acquired
prize exhibit, there are now plans to carry out a complete reconstruction
of the original using marble from the nearby quarries of Macael.
Also worth
seeing is the 16th century Convento de San Luís, located
at the opposite end of town and also built by the Vélez family,
although its fine chapel was damaged during the Civil War.
The Almacen
del Trigo information office has information on the town and the
surrounding Parque Natural de la Sierra de María.
Velez
Rubio is a small agricultural town. It is situated in picturesque
setting, surrounded by sierras, olive groves and fields of wheat.
The museum
is situated within a beautiful 18th century hospital 'Hospital Real'
and has a fascinating exhibit of artifacts and ceramics dating from
prehistoric to Moorish times, including a section on the ancient
cave paintings in this area.
However, the
main monument of note in the town is the magnificent Baroque Church
of La Encarnación which can be found on the plaza of the
same name. Built in the 18th century, this has an imposing carved
facade which includes the arms of the Marquises of Villafranca y
Vélez, who built it. Inside, the main altar has a superbly
detailed, 20-metre-high carved wood retablo.
Even more spectacular
than this, though, are the prehistoric cave paintings of the Cueva
de los Letreros, 3km out of town. To get there, follow the A317
north until you reach a petrol station on the left, next to which
is a signed turning to the cave. You will first need to obtain the
key to gain entry to the site. To do this go to the Almacen del
Trigo information office in Vélez Blanco at the far end of
the town where, in return for depositing your passport, you will
be given the key.
To reach the
caves, follow the path which starts from behind the petrol station
as it veers left before ascending steeply to a stairway which climbs
halfway up a cliff to the fenced off rock shelter. This is a good
kilometre's walk. Once through the gate of the compound, you will
be able to see surprisingly fresh looking red and brown sketches
of human figures, birds, animals, astronomical signs and indalos
which have been dated to around 4000 BC and are amongst the oldest
representations of people and animals in the world.
Further paintings
at La Cueva del Gabar, another abrigo to the north of Vélez
Blanco, are in a still better state of preservation but you can
only visit here with a guide. However, if you're interested, the
Turismo at Vélez Rubio or the town hall at Vélez Blanco
can advise on a guide who will provide you with a rope and ladder
to get you up the sheer rock face which is one of the reasons, of
course, why they have survived more or less intact.
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